Earlier this month, I had the chance to meet Dr. Annie Black, Global Scientific Director at Lancôme, at an intimate dinner during her visit to India. Dressed in a sharp formal suit paired with elegant Indian jhumkas, she exuded a quiet confidence long after the evening ended. The day before, she had walked into a press interaction wearing a golden blazer—a fitting choice for someone who effortlessly balances intellect and warmth.
Her calm presence and ability to bridge the gap between high science and holistic living stayed with me. She spoke of molecular pathways and skin biology with as much ease as she spoke of gardening, solitude, and grace.
At the heart of our conversation was Lancôme Génifique Ultimate, the newly reformulated edition of Lancôme’s cult-favourite serum that now makes one of the boldest claims in luxury skincare: the ability to repair a year’s worth of visible skin damage in just one week. Powered by a proprietary, biotech-derived molecule called Beta-Glucan-CM, the serum doesn’t just hydrate—it reactivates the skin’s natural repair switch, helping rebuild the barrier and strengthen resilience.
Here’s a peek into our conversation with Dr. Annie Black, where science, skin, and self-care converge beautifully.
Q: This serum makes one of the boldest claims we’ve seen in skincare. Why now, and why this direction?
Dr. Annie Black: It’s fundamental to explain what this ingredient does. I feel honoured to talk about this product, but I’m just the tip of the iceberg—so many scientists and engineers are behind it. We collaborated with Science magazine to explain the science behind Génifique. We even tried to quantify how many people were involved and how long it took. The credentials are exceptional.
Q: What is the USP of the serum—and how would you explain the science?
Dr. Black: Let me start with the why—repair science. Our skin is exposed daily to aggressors, from UV and pollution to stress and lack of sleep. Over time, these micro-damages accumulate and the skin gets overwhelmed. That’s when visible concerns begin. Génifique Ultimate activates a molecule we call the repair switch. It’s like an on-off button that triggers the skin’s repair mechanisms. Beta-Glucan-CM is the ingredient that activates this switch.
Q: So it repairs skin. But what kind of repair are we talking about?
Dr. Black: Barrier repair. That’s the core. Your skin barrier is your first defense, and when it’s compromised, more damage gets in. Strengthening it is fundamental, regardless of your skin type or concern. When the barrier is resilient, your skin is healthier, and when your skin is healthy, you have fewer problems.
Q: Would you call Beta-Glucan-CM an active? How does it compare to hyaluronic acid?
Dr. Black: Yes, absolutely. You know hyaluronic acid is known for hydration, right? Well, Beta-Glucan-CM also hydrates—but more importantly, it works biologically to activate repair. So it’s multifunctional and more potent in that sense.
Q: Is this ingredient exclusive to Lancôme?
Dr. Black: This particular beta-glucan was developed specifically for us. We worked with a biotechnology supplier who’s excellent at what they do. Biotechnology is a big force in our innovation. It’s about using cells—plant, yeast, or mushroom—as little factories to sustainably produce powerful molecules.
Q: How does this shift the way we think about skin damage?
Dr. Black: It helps people realise that skin can repair itself—if you give it the proper support. We tend to talk about treating signs of damage, but this is about prevention through daily repair. If you repair minor, invisible damages every day, they don’t accumulate. That’s a form of prevention we’ll be talking more about.
Q: Who is this product really for? Is it concern-led, age-led, or something else?
Dr. Black: It’s universal. We’ve tested it on women and men, all skin types, all ages—from early 20s to 60s, and across skin tones globally. What’s unique is that it’s mindset-led. This product is for you if you care about strengthening your skin and preventing future issues. It’s never too early or too late to support your barrier function.
Q: Given India’s hot, humid climate, does the texture work here?
Dr. Black: Very well. The texture is light, fast-absorbing, and non-sticky. We call it the “play time”—you have enough time to massage it in, but it doesn’t sit on the skin. It’s ideal for climates where you want something quick and effective, without heavy layering.
Q: If someone were to use just one skincare product, could it be this?
Dr. Black: Yes, depending on your needs. For me, this is a foundational product. If you want to simplify your routine, this covers hydration, barrier repair, and resilience. You can build around it, but it would be this if I had to choose just one product.
Q: When’s the best time to use it?
Dr. Black: Morning and night are ideal—that’s how we test it. But if you cleanse your face during the day, you can reapply. It also layers beautifully under makeup. Some artists even mix a drop of it into foundation for a hydrated finish.
Q: Any memorable compliments from users or journalists?
Dr. Black: Sometimes journalists come up to me and say, “I shouldn’t say this, but I love this product.” That really stays with me. It means we’ve done something right.
Q: What skincare trend do you wish would disappear?
Dr. Black: The “Sephora kids” trend. I see very young children using actives like retinol and acids. Their skin only needs hydration and protection at that age. It’s not just unnecessary—it can be harmful. Let them play with glitter and colour, but stay away from strong actives.
Q: If we peeked into your bathroom shelf, what would we find?
Dr. Black: A lot of products—I really love cosmetics! One thing that might surprise you: when I travel by plane, I always use a sheet mask after dinner. Everyone else is winding down or asleep, and I’m sitting there with a mask on, lip balm on. It’s my hydration ritual. I know flight attendants look at me funny, but I don’t care!
Q: What’s your go-to way to relax or unwind?
Dr. Black: Gardening. I have a home in the south of France with old stone terraces. Some of the stones fall, so I rebuild them with my hands. Digging into the soil and rebuilding those walls grounds me. It helps me switch off and feel completely present.
Q: Lastly, what’s your dream skincare project now that this is done?
Dr. Black: Longevity. Not anti-ageing—I don’t like that term. Longevity is about maintaining your skin’s vitality and function for as long as possible. It’s about extending your healthspan, not just your lifespan. Ageing gracefully, but with resilience
What We’re Taking Away: At Lavenderoom, we believe that skincare is both a ritual and a relationship—with your skin, yourself, and the science behind it. This conversation with Dr. Annie Black reminds us why it matters to not just use products but understand what powers them.
Knowing your ingredients—and hearing directly from the industry’s leading voices—helps us all make more mindful, meaningful choices. Here’s to beauty that heals, strengthens, and informs.
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